Introduction
by Patrick Wilson

B'hoys Towne is a representation of buildings and businesses representative of New York in the period between 1830 and 1865. Many of the architectural features are common to other more or less contemporary cities, both in the United States and Europe. Some buildings which served as inspiration are still standing and in use to this day with little outward changes.

"Where the Streets Were Never Meaner"

In the period before iron or steel were widely available, most of the buildings represented were wooden frame and rarely reaching above four or five floors. The ground floors of most were utilized as businesses of all kinds, while the upper floors might be living space for the proprietors. Most frequently, these upper floors were apartment spaces, the owner collecting rents. Most “apartments” were of two rooms with windows only on the front. Neighborhood wells or occasional “back yard” pumps were the only sources of water for the inhabitants, and sewage was simply dumped to the property's rear and and front. Pigs roamed the streets by day, living off the trash that could be piled feet high all along the streets, adding their own offal to the mix.

Gas lighting, while available for street lighting or in the homes of the well-to-do, was rare in most of the building types represented. With interiors dark as mines, redolent with the smells of unwashed people, raw sewage, stale food and garbage, they were not “lived in” as such. Inhabitants returned home only to sleep and cook such food as they had. And still, for most of the emigrant population, primarily Irish, these otherwise intolerable conditions were as superior from Home as Heaven from New York.

In all weathers, it was better to be outside than indoors. Thus, the streets were always full of men and women, most without any real employment, whose idle hands and frustration were the fuel for the casual, everyday violence which characterized the Gangs of New York.

Some General Advice
White glue, good scissors, and a craft knife for scoring are the only necessary tools. Would-be builders are strongly encouraged to use foam core (or “feather”) board to make Bases and to back and brace the walls of each Block. Use glue sparingly so as to avoid warping of walls, and it is a good practice to let walls backed with foam core dry flat under a weight for the best result. A product called “Perfect Panels” using an all purpose contact cement is also well suited.
Each Block is uniformly 2" deep, and vary in length between 9" and 10." It is advisable to measure the length of the Block in question, then cut out a foam core Base to match the specific dimensions. The Base will fit "inside" the front and side walls when assembled. Ideally, the entire interior surface of the three walls of each block will be backed with material to stiffen and strengthen the whole. The back of each Block is designed to be open. For those wishing to cut out doors and windows, mounting platforms for figures to stand on will be necessary. For those not so inclined, it may be desirable to use matte board or other material to close up the Blocks from behind.

Most Blocks will have extra window sills, cornices (decorative stone or other pieces above some portion of the building front), door frames, signs, dormers (small roofed and windowed extensions appearing on the main roof), etc. which may be used or not as desired. If applied, they will add a greater sense of dimension and weight to the final product. Matte board, and even balsa work well for mounting these features. Study the building faces and look for any matching parts which may be glued over them.

All Blocks at various points show dashed lines. These are “score” lines for the craft knife. Without cutting through, lightly stroke the blade along them using a straight edge, thus allowing them to be easily folded. The Tabs for gluing walls and other parts together will also need to be scored. It is another good idea to “dry fit” pieces together to be sure of their alignment. Several buildings have “basement” windows which require cutting out the spaces indicated in the foundations and mounting the assembled windows back, inside the walls.

The street sections show double score lines at the edge of the sidewalk. When properly scored and folded, a 3/16” curb results. This measure is common through all the Blocks and important as it is the thickness of a standard sheet of foam core board. Without cutting them apart, and gluing foam core underneath, the streets and sidewalks become “3D,” for much greater visual impact.

By abutting or overlapping the sections, streets can be made to any desired width and length. If mounted on foam core bases of sufficient width and length, permanent streets can be made. Completed Blocks of buildings can then be glued (or not!) along the outboard edge of the sidewalks, and multiple Blocks can be abutted directly end-to-end for as long a distance as desired. Narrow alleys, intersections, and street corners may also be created. With some forethought, a modular series of streets can be created for the maximum variety and flexibility.

Some styles of “Christmas Village” type street lights (including those that light) may be added. In the better neighborhoods, trees or shrubbery could appear along the sidewalks. If your space is used thoughtfully, some buildings may be set farther back from the sidewalk and fenced front yards added (particularly effective for the Police Station and The Metropolitan Hotel).

Finally, don’t be afraid to add other features to the some of the Blocks or buildings (e.g. porch lights) or to make more ambitious modifications or additions. B’hoys Towne is now YOUR town!

Patrick R. Wilson
February, 2003

Block-by-Block
Assembly Instructions
by Richard Houston